TY - JOUR
T1 - Application of Kawabata evaluation system for the tactile properties of woven silk fabrics in textile industry
AU - Phoophat, P.
AU - Kumphai, P.
AU - Suwonsichon, S.
AU - Boonyarit, J.
AU - Plangmon, C.
AU - Chollakup, R.
N1 - Funding Information:
The authors are grateful to Kasetsart University Research and Development Institute (KURDI) for the financial support and Specialized Center of Rubber and Polymer Materials in Agriculture and Industry (RPM), Faculty of Science, Kasetsart University for the presentation support.
Publisher Copyright:
© Published under licence by IOP Publishing Ltd.
PY - 2020/3/4
Y1 - 2020/3/4
N2 - Thailand is one of well-known countries for the silk fabric production. However, there are just few studies focusing on tactile properties of silk fabrics. This study collected forty-one machined-woven silk fabrics manufactured in Thailand, Japan, China, Korea, Italy, France, India and USA. The fabrics were classified into 4 groups categorized by the fabric weight according to the "silk fabric" industrial product standard of the Thai Industrial Standards Institute (TISI) 176-2540 (≤ 90 g/m2, 91-120 g/m2, 121-160 g/m2, >160 g/m2). Mechanical properties of the silk fabrics were measured by the Kawabata evaluation system for fabric (KES-F). Correlations between fabric weight groups were analyzed to investigate the relationship among properties. The results showed significant effect of the fabric weight (per unit area) on only compression resilience (RC) and thickness. The thickness was also correlated with the compression properties (WC, RC), the bending rigidity (B) of the warp direction and the surface roughness (SMD). Moreover, the air permeability was associated with the coefficient of friction (MIU), the shearing properties (G, 2HG, 2HG5) and the tensile properties of the weft direction (EM, LT, WT). The total hand value (THV) was calculated by using the Kawabata hand evaluations KN-201-LDY for women's thin dress fabric. The fabrics with the THV scores above 4 showed high quality for women's dresses. The principal component analysis (PCA) was conducted to examine the relationship between the mechanical properties and the fabrics. The results showed that the high-quality fabrics were plotted near each other as a group and related to some properties such as the coefficient of friction (MIU), the extensibility (EM), the tensile energy (WT) of the weft direction and the linearity of compression (LC). Finally, the biplot graph of the fabric distribution can be a guideline for a variety of applications. The fabrics for apparels mainly located in the lower-left quadrant while those located in the upper quadrant were appropriate for home textiles.
AB - Thailand is one of well-known countries for the silk fabric production. However, there are just few studies focusing on tactile properties of silk fabrics. This study collected forty-one machined-woven silk fabrics manufactured in Thailand, Japan, China, Korea, Italy, France, India and USA. The fabrics were classified into 4 groups categorized by the fabric weight according to the "silk fabric" industrial product standard of the Thai Industrial Standards Institute (TISI) 176-2540 (≤ 90 g/m2, 91-120 g/m2, 121-160 g/m2, >160 g/m2). Mechanical properties of the silk fabrics were measured by the Kawabata evaluation system for fabric (KES-F). Correlations between fabric weight groups were analyzed to investigate the relationship among properties. The results showed significant effect of the fabric weight (per unit area) on only compression resilience (RC) and thickness. The thickness was also correlated with the compression properties (WC, RC), the bending rigidity (B) of the warp direction and the surface roughness (SMD). Moreover, the air permeability was associated with the coefficient of friction (MIU), the shearing properties (G, 2HG, 2HG5) and the tensile properties of the weft direction (EM, LT, WT). The total hand value (THV) was calculated by using the Kawabata hand evaluations KN-201-LDY for women's thin dress fabric. The fabrics with the THV scores above 4 showed high quality for women's dresses. The principal component analysis (PCA) was conducted to examine the relationship between the mechanical properties and the fabrics. The results showed that the high-quality fabrics were plotted near each other as a group and related to some properties such as the coefficient of friction (MIU), the extensibility (EM), the tensile energy (WT) of the weft direction and the linearity of compression (LC). Finally, the biplot graph of the fabric distribution can be a guideline for a variety of applications. The fabrics for apparels mainly located in the lower-left quadrant while those located in the upper quadrant were appropriate for home textiles.
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85082597384&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1088/1757-899X/773/1/012035
DO - 10.1088/1757-899X/773/1/012035
M3 - Conference article
AN - SCOPUS:85082597384
SN - 1757-8981
VL - 773
JO - IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering
JF - IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering
IS - 1
M1 - 012035
T2 - 2nd International Conference on Materials Research and Innovation, ICMARI 2019
Y2 - 16 December 2019 through 18 December 2019
ER -